- Q: What power supply do I need for a chandelier or pendant light?
- Q: Which Mean Well model is best for a Bonnington chandelier or similar fixture?
- Q: The Mean Well 3-in-1 dimming sounds complicated. Is it worth it for a chandelier?
- Q: Wiring a power supply for a chandelier—is it a DIY job?
- Q: What if my chandelier is heavy—does the power supply affect hanging?
- Q: Can I use a Mean Well power supply from a previous model (e.g., LRS-350-24) for a pendant light?
How to Choose the Right Mean Well Power Supply for Your Chandelier Repair or Pendant Light Installation
If you're managing a chandelier repair or installing pendant lights in an office lobby, break room, or conference room, you're probably wondering which Mean Well power supply to grab. I’ve been the person in charge of sourcing these for our facilities team—processing about 60–80 orders annually across lighting, HVAC, and electrical components. Here’s what I’ve learned, in Q&A form, so you can find your answer fast.
Q: What power supply do I need for a chandelier or pendant light?
A: It depends on the light's voltage and wattage—but here's the short version.
Most chandeliers and pendant lights run on low-voltage DC (typically 12V or 24V). You need a power supply (often called an LED driver) that matches the voltage and can handle the total wattage of all bulbs combined. For example, if you're repairing a chandelier with 10 bulbs at 5W each, that's 50W. I'd grab a Mean Well LPC-60-1050 (constant current) or a Mean Well HLG-60H-24B (constant voltage, 24V) if the fixture is set up for that. Key rule: match voltage first, then wattage (with 20% headroom). I learned this the hard way when I ordered a 12V supply for a 24V pendant—had to reorder and explain the delay to my operations director. Not fun.
Q: Which Mean Well model is best for a Bonnington chandelier or similar fixture?
A: If you're working with a Bonnington chandelier, you're likely dealing with a multi-lamp fixture that needs a constant-current driver.
Bonnington chandeliers often use individual LED lamps (like G9 or E12) or integrated LED modules. For the latter, you'll need a driver that matches the module's spec. A Mean Well LPC-60-700 (700mA constant current) is a common choice for integrated modules. If the chandelier uses replaceable LED bulbs, though, you can use a Mean Well HLG-60H-24A (24V constant voltage) and wire the bulbs in parallel. My experience is based on about 15 chandelier retrofit projects for office lobbies. If your fixture uses proprietary modules, check the manufacturer's spec first—this is one area where guessing really backfires.
Q: The Mean Well 3-in-1 dimming sounds complicated. Is it worth it for a chandelier?
A: Yes, but only if you want dimming flexibility for atmosphere or energy savings.
The "3-in-1" dimming on Mean Well drivers (models like the HLG-60H-24B) lets you choose between resistor-based, PWM, or 0-10V dimming. For a chandelier in a meeting room where you might want to dim for presentations, this is a game-changer. You don't need to decide upfront—you wire it for the dimming method that fits your controls. Simple. To be fair, if the chandelier is just for ambient light and never dimmed, save the money and get a non-dimming version like the LPC-60. But I've found that offices appreciate the option, and it's way cheaper to install now than to retrofit later. Seriously, the extra $15–$20 per unit is a no-brainer if there's any chance of future dimming needs.
Q: Wiring a power supply for a chandelier—is it a DIY job?
A: Not unless you're a licensed electrician. This is a serious 'red flag' for liability reasons.
I get it—you want to save on labor. But wiring a power supply into a ceiling fixture involves mains voltage (120V/240V AC) on the input side. If you get it wrong, you risk fire or shock. Period. I've seen a well-meaning office coordinator attempt this—the fixture flickered, and our electrician found a loose ground wire. Could have been worse. If you're installing a pendant light or chandelier in a commercial space, hire a qualified electrician. The cost (usually $150–$300 for a simple install) is worth the peace of mind. Trust me on this one.
Q: What if my chandelier is heavy—does the power supply affect hanging?
A: The power supply itself is small, but you need a junction box rated for the fixture's weight.
A Mean Well LPC-60 weighs about 0.5 lbs. The fixture weight is your concern. For a heavy chandelier (say, 50+ lbs), you'll need a ceiling fan-rated or heavy-duty junction box. The power supply sits inside or near the junction box, so it's not part of the hanging support. But here's what surprised me: some power supplies come with mounting tabs for DIN rail or screw mounting. For a chandelier install, I prefer the Mean Well LPC-60 (enclosed, with mounting holes) over the HDR-60-24 (DIN rail only), because the former is easier to mount in a ceiling cavity. That's a small detail, but it saves time for the electrician. Bottom line: focus on the junction box, not the driver, for weight support.
Q: Can I use a Mean Well power supply from a previous model (e.g., LRS-350-24) for a pendant light?
A: Only if the light is 24V AND the wattage adds up—but it's overkill for most chandeliers.
The Mean Well LRS-350-24 is a 350W, 24V metal case power supply—it's designed for LED strip lighting or industrial applications. For a single pendant light or even a multi-lamp chandelier (50–100W), it's like using a fire hose for a houseplant. It'll work, but it's bulky and wastes energy at low load (< 10% load efficiency drops). If you already have one on hand for a different project, sure, wire it in. But if you're buying new, get something sized for the load—like a Mean Well LPC-60-24 (60W) for most chandeliers. Take it from someone who's ordered the wrong size before: don't over-spec unless you have a reason. The LRS-350-24 costs about $45 as of April 2025 (verify on DigiKey or Mouser). The LPC-60-24 is around $20. Spend the $25 difference on a nice dimmer switch instead.