Why Compare These Two?

When I took over purchasing for our office in 2020, I had zero clue about power supplies. I mean, seriously—I thought a power supply was just the box that makes things turn on. Turns out, there's a lot more to it.

Fast forward to 2024, after managing about 60-80 orders annually across 8 different vendors, I've learned a few things. One of the biggest: the Mean Well LRS-150-24 and the Mean Well LPC-60-700 look similar on paper but serve completely different purposes. So let's break it down.

This isn't about which one is 'better.' It's about which one fits your specific situation. Here's the framework I use when I'm comparing these two for our projects.

Dimension 1: Power and Capacity

LRS-150-24: The Workhorse

The LRS-150-24 delivers 150 watts at 24V DC. That's about 6.5 amps. For context, this is enough to power multiple LED strips, several small fixtures, or a single mid-sized lighting system. It's a general-purpose AC/DC switching power supply.

I've used these for office lighting retrofits, control cabinet power, and even some small automation projects. They're robust, but they're not dimmable out of the box. You'd need an external controller for that.

LPC-60-700: The Precision Driver

The LPC-60-700 is a different beast. It's a constant current LED driver rated at 60 watts with a 700mA output. That's specifically for driving LED fixtures that need a controlled current rather than a stable voltage. The voltage range is typically 48-86V DC, depending on the load.

What I really like about this one? It supports 3-in-1 dimming—resistor, PWM, or 0-10V voltage. That's huge if you're working on dimmable accent lighting or entrance chandeliers, where you want fine control over brightness.

The surprise wasn't the power difference. It was how much the application dictates the choice. More on that in a minute.

Dimension 2: Dimming Capabilities

Here's where things get interesting. And honestly, this is the dimension where most people get tripped up.

The LRS-150-24 is not dimmable. Period. You can add an external controller, but that adds cost, complexity, and another failure point. If dimming is your requirement, this isn't the right choice.

The LPC-60-700, on the other hand, has built-in 3-in-1 dimming. That means you can control it with a simple resistor (for basic brightness control), PWM signal (from a microcontroller or DMX system), or 0-10V (standard in building automation). It's basically plug-and-play.

I still kick myself for not understanding this earlier. In one of our first projects, we spec'd the LRS-150-24 for a dimmable chandelier setup. We had to retrofit it with an external dimmer, which cost us $400 in extra parts and two days of labor. Rookie mistake.

Pro tip: If your project involves dimming—especially for entrance chandeliers or accent lighting—skip the LRS-series and go straight to the LPC or HLG series. It'll save you headaches and money.

Dimension 3: Wiring and Installation

I don't have hard data on how much time a simple wiring setup saves, but based on my experience, it's noticeable.

The LRS-150-24 uses screw terminals for AC input and DC output. You'll need a separate wiring harness or terminal block for distribution. It's straightforward but requires a bit of planning.

The LPC-60-700 also uses screw terminals, but it has integrated wiring for the dimming inputs. That means fewer connections, less clutter, and faster installation. For tight spaces (like inside a chandelier base or a small junction box), the LPC's compact design is a lifesaver.

One thing I've learned after 5 years is that installation time matters. A power supply that takes 15 minutes to wire vs. 45 minutes adds up fast when you're doing multiple units. The LPC saves about 20-30 minutes per install in my experience.

Dimension 4: Cost and Budget Analysis

Let's talk money. The LRS-150-24 costs about $20-30 depending on the vendor. The LPC-60-700 is more expensive, around $30-45. But here's the catch: total cost of ownership matters.

If you need dimming and start with the LRS, you'll need:

  • External dimmer: $40-80
  • Additional wiring: $10-20
  • Extra labor: $50-100
  • Total: $120-250 per unit

If you start with the LPC-60-700: you're done at $30-45. No extras.

The 'cheap' option becomes the expensive one when you factor in all the hidden costs. That's a lesson I learned the hard way.

Which One Should You Choose?

Here's my rule of thumb, developed after years of trial and error:

Go with the LRS-150-24 when:

  • You need a general-purpose 24V power supply
  • Dimming isn't a requirement
  • You're powering multiple devices from a single source
  • Budget is tight and you don't need dimming

Go with the LPC-60-700 when:

  • You need a constant current LED driver (700mA)
  • Dimming is required or may be needed in the future
  • You're working with a single fixture or small zone
  • Installation space is limited
  • You value simplicity and reduced wiring

One more thing: if you're working on an entrance chandelier or any dimmable lighting project, just buy the LPC-60-700 from the start. The 5 minutes you spend checking the datasheet will save you from 5 days of rework. Simple.

Final Thought

After 5 years of managing procurement, I've come to believe that the 'best' power supply is highly context-dependent. The LRS-150-24 is a fantastic workhorse for non-dimming applications. The LPC-60-700 is a precision tool for dimmable LED projects.

Neither is universally better. But if you know what you need, you can make the right choice. And if you're still unsure? Check the datasheets. Mean Well provides excellent documentation. Or just call your vendor—a good one will help you sort it out.

Got questions? Drop them in the comments. I'll answer what I can.